Harbor Freight parts washer [Archive] (2024)

Billy

30th April 2004, 22:18

We have a new Harbor Freight store that has opened close by..... while I am not a huge fan of everything they have, they do have some cool stuff for good prices.

Anyway, they have a 20 gallon parts washer on special for $70, about $30 off regular price. While it is a good size, or even a bit bigger than what I really need, I'm less than impressed with the painted stamped steel tub, tray, etc.

On the other hand, reality says I don't need Mac grade stuff for this either.

Wondering if anyone out there has one, and how well the circulation pump, filter system and flexible discharge nozzle have held up for you?

Sunless in Seattle

1st May 2004, 22:38

I made the mistake of dumping / spilling some carb cleaner into my Harbor Freight parts washer. Mine isn't red anymore, it's bare steel.

Pump went out within a year or two, but maybe the carb cleaner got it??

So all in all, not a great experience, but I still have it and still use it. I do need another pump, though. The plastic housing on #2 is warped badly enought that 30% of the solvent leaks out rather than going through the flex spout.

Catman

1st May 2004, 23:17

Do you have room for something larger? Are you shopping by price or by 'size'? I can tell you how to build the best parts washer in the world for <$100 ...and it will handle any transmission or engine block.

>^..^<

Billy

2nd May 2004, 08:24

Cat, I'm really shopping by size, and interested in quality.

I don't have a lot of space to work with, but I'd like one big enough to clean things at least in a valve cover size (length) and probably deep enough to do a head.

For quality, I'd like the pump/discharge spout to hold up well, the lid to seal tight preventing evaporation/fire risk, and to be easy to service.

If you have a build it design from assorted parts, that maybe could be scaled, I'd like to hear it.

No old iron bathtubs though please! :D

porterdog

3rd May 2004, 09:37

Originally posted by Billy Young, aka toyluvr:
I'd like to hear it.

Me too, and I bet we're not the only ones!

Rich Wilkman

3rd May 2004, 11:50

Billy:

Pumps are cheap and easy to replace or, in some cases, repair, and that's pretty much the only thing that can go wrong with the washer short of leaks. I don't see any problem shopping something like this on size, though.

I'd recommend storing the solvent in a fire cabinet, though. You aren't going to get an airtight seal on one of these bad boys. Besides, if you transfer to a canister in a firesafe or even a good Jerry can (fuel can, not water) you can filter it more and extend the life.

Oh, and learn from Sunless and don't use the wrong solvents. :)

Of course, there's nothing wrong with the old style "paint can" parts washers and a set of brass brushes. Very portable, nothing to break.

-Rich

r-man

3rd May 2004, 13:37

Once more, I'll throw my 'check out your local pawnshops' comment here...

I know of 2 snap-on parts washers at local pawn shops (Dallas Tx) right now for $120 and $99...

Can't hurt to look.

robert

Billy

3rd May 2004, 15:40

Excellent idea R-man!

I don't know why I keep forgetting that option, but it's a good one.

Catman

4th May 2004, 01:10

Originally posted by Billy Young, aka toyluvr:

No old iron bathtubs though please! :D What else are you going to find that will hold a transmission? :confused: :eek: :ohno:

Actually this was built around an old cast iron bathtub ...but the whole design was what made it work so well.

First I did acquire a free cast iron bathtub from a neighbor that was remodeling. I built a fram out of 2x6 that made the top rim of the tub 'lower chest / upper stomach' high. The frame used 4x4 legs and was lag bolted to the wall. Underneath the tub I built a cradle that would hold a 30 gal plastic drum laid on it's side. Turn the drum so that the bung holes are at 12 and 6 o'clock. Remove the bung hole at 12 o'clock. Out of the drain of the bathtub run a piece of 1.5" PVC pipe that is long enough to go through the top bung hole and extend to the back (bottom) of the drum. In the bung plug at 6 o'clock there is usually a threaded hole (just needs cutting out) that fits a 1/2" (IIRC) NPT PVC fitting ...run that to a Little Giant pump. Out of the pump run to a remote mount oil filter that is mounted to the wall under the tub. Out of run up to the top side of the tub and make a manifold out of 3-4 PVC valves ....each valve feeding a 1/2 PVC line that extends down the wall over the tub ...put a 90* on the end of each line and then screw in a brass hose barb ....you can then attach a rubber hose to each one. This way you can control the flow with the manifold to each 'outlet' as needed. Put a simple screen drain in the bottom of the tub to catch the large stuff ....but having the drain out of the tub going to the rear of the drum any sediment that gets through that drain will be at the rear of the drum ann away from the intake for the pump. Use the cheapest and largest oil filters you can find on the remote mount filter. You may want to check reactivty of the chemicals you plan on using ...CPVC may be a better choice. FWIW, CPVC valves do not necessarily have the same properties as CPVC pipe. You may want to find some with viton seals. When looking for a pump you do not need more than 3-5 GPM (you are not trying to make a pressure washer) :p For small parts I have taken a large coffee can and punched a few holes around the bottom. You can put nuts and bolts and other small parts in the can and just drop a hose in the top and let fluid flush / wash these parts while you are working on bigger things.

Hope this has made some sense.

>^..^<